The objectives for relocating battery:
1. Ventilation. a. Avoid cutting up the hood for louvers. b. Highest place for venting rising air (while idling). c. In line with incoming air while driving. d. Turbo heat shield vent (ducting/chimmeny) area w/fan or w/o fan. e. Reasonable cost.
2. Battery life extension (longer & stronger starting power). a. Away from heat to eliminate acid boil over causing corrosion damage to body b. Less terminal corrosion due to no heat expansion contraction. c. Battery remains clean. d. Battery location easier for jump starts (while helping others). e. Battery sheltered from winter cold.
3. Weight distribution closer to optimum 50/50 ratio (better traction). 4. Easier access to #4 spark plug among other things in that area.
Anyway, I got a 20 foot, 2 gauge cable kit with Toolless terminal ends prepared for $21.99 (#095956). A battery box & lid with a tie strap and tie downs brackets for $9.99 (#571703) bigger box $10.99. (Part #'s from AutoZone). You will also need a 8mm bolt for negative cable hook up in the trunk.
1. Remove battery & straps.
2. Remove heat shield. Heater valve nut on firewall remove & replace.
3. Remove vacuum container.
4. Remove firewall section behind firewall (optional, to create better vent channel). 5. Reinstall hood light wire (if disconnected).
6. Get sharp pointy scissors (or tool of choice) ready to cut hole in the blank section of wiring harness rubber insulator plug in wall. You can pull the plug out of the body by pulling the harness a bit since there is plenty of slack in the wiring. This makes the cutting & placing then pulling cable through from the inside of the car much easier.
7. Remove step molding & side kick panel, luggage rack & rear hatch carpet. 7a.Remove black padding behind lower portion of dash under ECU (may require removal of two 6mm bolts - 10mm head size)
8. Ready 2 gauge cable, feel for the plug hole under & up behind the right speaker (It is closer than you think). Insert the red end of cable close to the side wall through the plug hole.
9. From the engine compartment cut the hole in the plug section close to the side of car. A few small snip/cuts to make a snug hole for the cable to fit through but keep water out.
10.Pull cable through plug placing it close to side wall and reaching the solenoid.
11.Remove positive battery cable from solenoid and place 2 gauge cable end & secure allowing some slack.
12.Push plug gently into wall with blunt instrument such as the butt of a socket wrench handle (optionally, use some sealant around plug to create better waterproof seal).
13.Ground negative cable on the bolt sticking out behind the battery tray that was used for the firewall which was removed -or- the battery hold down bolt. If you have the original cable ends, they should fit right on the bolt.
14.Install vacuum reservoir.
15.Place 2 gauge cable along the side kick wall, continue with cable in the step molding channel.
16.Manuver rear seats to gain access to the side panel screws.
17.Remove wheel well carpet/cover (you will need to unhook the seat release plastic cable to completely remove carpet)
18.Remove shock tower cover.
19.Keeping cable close to wall, place it under rear panel & up over wheel well.
20.Snake it through to the shock tower so the cable is next to the seat release plastic cable. You may need to loosen a couple screws to move the speaker panel assembly. You may also have to shave the bottom outside edge of the plastic assembly and carpet to fit the cable without having these pieces rub/cut into the cable.
21.Locate 8 mm bolt hole below green insulation by strap retainer close to shock tower (about 8" inward). Place black end of 2 gauge cable and secure with bolt.
22.Figure where you want to place the battery. You may want the extra wire to keep the battery movable for future options.
23.Replace & secure panels.
24.Install battery box.
25.Put battery in box, prepare cables for connection (with parts provided), then connect. Tuck cables as needed.
I placed the battery box near the right rear tail light and strapped it to the luggage net tie down loop for now.
I used all the cable, just made one cut to make positive & negative cables. The battery box is secured to the rear loop with strap provided, to leave my options open. You can add a small hose to vent (?) the battery to the outside on floor near taillight. My positive cable comes out of the shock tower panel slit.
On my second XR battery relocation I secured it in the same location but cut the excess cable (about 4 feet) for a very nice fit and still maintain the option to relocate.
The cable is one 20 foot piece and comes with two battery post clamps (top post). Each cable end has a loop/ring connector. One end has a red strip the other has a black strip. The red taped end connects to the solenoid & the black end connects to the body ground in the hatch area, again when you cut the cable there will be two cables.
Basic diagram: 0 = wire end -- = cable X = battery post clamps
2 Gauge Cable (--) with ends (0) 0----------------------------------------------------------------------0
One cut cable turn into two cables.
Hatch ground Battery placement choice Solenoid
0-----------------------------X - Battery + X-------------------------------------0