How to R&R a dash

Tools needed:-Light source

• Phillips screwdrivers (a power screwdriver or drill with Phillips bit makes this much, much easier and quicker)-A really long (24 inch) Phillips screwdriver comes in very handy but is not absolutely necessary
• Flat-tip screwdriver
• A magnetic screwdriver comes in handy; so does a magnetic pickup thingie.

Procedure

• -Remove A-panel trim (two screws)
• --Remove kick panels (two screws; pry it gently away starting at the bottom)
• --Pry out switches -- start at the bottom edge -- for fog lights/rear defroster/washer... disconnect harnesses. Note that they are each specific; you can't hook them up wrong.
• --Pry out instrument panel dimmer switch; disconnect harness
• --Pry out wiper speed controller
• --Remove upper (one screw) and lower (three screws) panels covering steering wheel
• --Remove turn signal switch and light/wiper switch (two screws each) (this is key to removing dash easily; otherwise you have to lower the steering column, which is tough.--Remove lower left dash ; disconnect left front speaker.--Remove the panel surrounding the instrument cluster (4 screws)
• --Remove the instrument cluster (4 screws); make sure you don't instead remove the screws that secure the clear plastic gauge cover (just ask me why I know this)--Gently pull the instrument cluster toward you; reach behind it from the gearshift side and remove the vacuum line to the boost gauge; you might have to twist the vacuum line to and fro to loosen it first; it will come off.
• Remove the speedometer cable by pressig on the rectanguar tab and pulling straight off.
• Disconnect harness and remove gauge cluster. (This is a good time to replace any blown instrument illumination bulbs; see the article for how to do this) (It is also a good time to replace the original boost gauge vacuum line and to remove the screw in the back of the boost gauge vacuum connection.
• --Remove 3 screws securing the sliding heater controls; push the control panel back inside the dash (this will be tough to do)(if your control panel light doesn't work this is an excellent time to replace it)-Remove single screw securing warning light/clock panel surround.
• Remove warning light panel. --Remove clock (4 screws); disconnect harness.
• Remove single screw holding in the car-outline panel... pull it out and disconnect the wiring harness
• --Remove several (4?) screws along the edge where the bottom dash meets the top dash; they're difficult to see but look for them. I think there were two on the left of the steering column and two on the right.--Open glove compartment; remove two screws in upper surface that secure the glove compartment/lower right dash to top dash; you'll need a short
• Phillips-head screwdriver for this.--Unscrew five large screws securing top dash (3 along the windshield, one each on lower sides near kick panels. You might have to pry the lower right dash panel back (toward rear seat) to reach the screw on that side. Note that the 3 screws along the windshield have special washers.--Remove the compartment/tray above the glove compartment... pry gently along the top and bottom with the flat-tip screwdriver until you can squeeze top and bottom together and simply slide it out. This is tough too, but necessary.--Reach inside the dash and disconnect the vents (one on each side of the dash, two to the defroster vents, one large one to the center vent); they simply pull off.--The dash should now be loose. Pry it gently away from the lower dashes and by lifting it and rotating slightly to clear the steering column, it should slide out the passenger door. Someone to help you makes this operation a lot easier but you can do it yourself.

To install a new dash:

Simply reverse the procedure. Be very careful when maneuvering the new dash into place; the edges can be brittle and might snap. Take care to hook up the vents, hook up all the electrical connections. Keeping which screw goes in which hole is a bit difficult but not impossible. (Tip: If you removed your new dash from a clunker, take all the screws with you. If you should lose one when taking the dash out of your car, this makes looking for it a moot point. Just use a spare.) Get everything lined up and all the connections at least pulled into position before starting doing all the screws securing the dash.

This whole procedure took me 90 minutes, but it was the second time I've done it (I've removed three dashes from Merkurs and replaced two). A more realistic time for your first attempt might be 2 to 2.5 hours. Good luck.