Purchasing a used Merkur XR4ti

Experience and disclaimer: I have bought two XRs, both 87s and lusted after several others, including Rich Franco's black 89, which is just about perfect but he won't sell it to me nomatter what. I've also read the IMON e-mail list for nearly four years and prowled through almost all of the Archives. I have done most of the work on both XRs myself, renovating both back to what I would consider very good condition. I sold the first one to a fellow in Las Vegas, who still owns it and as far as I know, still enjoys it. The second one is just about finished, lacking only a driver's seat (and maybe new carpeting) to be complete. The following is based on my experiences; your results may vary and others might have different opinions. This is intended as a guide only to the buyer interested in buying an XR. Regretfully, I don't know anything about Scorpios, although there are similarities.

There are many Web sites now for Merkur owners. The two best, in my opinion, are Merkurbahn and the Merkur Encloypedia. There are several parts suppliers... Rapido, BAT (British American Transfer), Lou Fusz Ford, MerknDice, Modern Performance, plus others.

I hope this helps you become an XR owner. Good luck.

Richard Curtis Fairfax Station, Va. 87XR, 5-speed, 63k miles

General:

Don't enter into XR ownership lightly. Unless you can work on the car yourself, or have a boatload of money, or both, or you will be frustrated most likely with XR ownership. Almost all XRs require a lot of tender loving care. Parts are usually obsoleted (although you might be surprised at what turns up at local auto parts stores); you must be inventive in figuring out cures/repairs; you won't find many mechanics who know much (if anything) about XRs; you won't get any support from Ford Lincoln Mercury (henceforth, FLM). Having said that, I must admit to enjoying greatly the feeling of community that surrounds XR ownership, almost all of it because of the Internet. The car is great also... surprising performance coupled with good fuel mileage, great ride quality, cool looks. And almost all XRs are cheap to buy with the most expensive one I've seen recently being around $4,000 and many opportunities to buy a good XR for $2,000 or less. There are still some low-mileage examples around although don't be scared off by high-mileage cars. 150,000 miles is not uncommon for an XR.

XRs were sold in the U.S. starting with the 85 model year and ending with the 89 model year. Basically, the 85 and 86 models were alike in almost every respect. Beginning in 87, the floor pan changed slightly and the rear spoiler went from a biplane design to a mono design. Until sometime in 87, XRs had the lower plastic body cladding done in grey and then mono-colors became available. I believe most 88s and all 89s were mono color (the cladding was same color as the body but I might be wrong about this). Early models tend to have cracked dash covers and split leather upholstery or broken upholstery seams; some of these were recalled and replaced/repaired. There is a catalytic converter recall available for some of the early models (to find out if yours qualifies, call 1-800-392-3673 and inquire. Have your VIN handy.) The 88 and 89 model years offered Raven Black and some few beige (?) interiors that were not prone to the cracking dashes/split seams of the early models. Sadly, few 89s were brought into the U.S. (2,500?). In all, an estimated 44,000 XRs were imported from 85-89.

Most XRs came with power windows, power locks and mirrors, sunroofs, etc. Heated seats are fairly common (although not all of them still work). A sunroof-less XR is relatively rare and sometimes is referred to as a competition shell (slightly stiffer body). Beginning with some late 87s and through the 89s, the antenna became integral with the rear hatch glass, and were problems in a lot of cars (due to a breaking of the wire from the hatch to the car).

85 models do not have the third Center High Mounted Stop Light (CHMSL). The 85-86 models had what are referred to as phone-dial wheels that are 14 inches. The 87 models had what are referred to a pie-spoke wheels but are 15 inches as are all 88s and 89s. The 88s and 89s had BBS-style wheels. XR wheels are hub-centric and have a specific offset (information you'll need if you're looking for aftermarket wheels, a common upgrade). Not all colors were offered in all years. If you buy an XR ask the seller if he/she has a shop manual to go with it. These are now extremely rare (out of print) and are still worth their original $75 price if not more. There was also offered an electrical diagram and a vacuum diagram, both highly recommended.

Things I've observed on XRs that generally need to be replaced/repaired:

• Radiator cap. Buy a new one immediately after picking up your XR. TFI (see below)
• Plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor.
• Fan belts.
• Change the oil.
• Change the coolant.
• Flush and change the power steering fluid.
• Flush and refill brake fluid.
• Charge the a/c refrigerant. Check for leaks.
• Replace all wipers.
• Check the brakes (see below for shuddering condition).
• Install a new PCV valve.
• Check the timing.
• Check all vacuum lines.
• Replace steering rack boots if split, torn or missing altogether.
• Polish the plastic headlights (they'll look sorta yellow); a plastic polish such as Meguiars will clean up most of this yellowing)

Common XR problems:

• Erratic idle.
• Dead batteries.
• Driveline vibration.
• Electrical problems (most due to corrosion on the contacts)
• Timing belt needs replacing every 60k miles.
• TFI on the blitz.
• Leaking radiator, usually around the plastic end caps (I fixed a minor leak on my 2nd XR with some RTV sealant).
• Leaking taillight gaskets.
• Drooping headliner.
• Cracked dash.
• Cracked leather seats or split seams.
• Inoperative hatch lock.
• Inoperative electric antenna on 85-87 models.
• Inoperative "hatch window" antenna on late 87-89 models.
• Erratic tach, fuel gauge or temp gauge. Or all three.
• Burned out illumination bulbs in the gauge cluster.
• Leaking fuel injectors.
• Leaking valve cover gasket.
• Torn steering rack boots.
• Clicking CV joints.
• Shudder under braking.

Bodywork:

• Paint. Faded paint is a common XR problem, especially on the rear wing. Repainting a car can cost anywhere from $400 to $4,000 with an average repainting costing about $2,400.
  Cracks in the grill (or what passes for a grill) are not uncommon, especially around the headlights. This piece is plastic and is easily repaired. These tend to fade faster than the body also.
  Small dings are common and acceptable but you would be advised to steer clear of a car needing major bodywork (like replacing a fender; they're welded on).
• While you may find some XRs in salvage yards, they are pretty rare even in large metro areas so replacement body panels may be a problem. Don't rely on Ford-Lincoln Mercury for any replacement parts; most have been obsoleted. Rust is UNcommon in XRs. Small pits, etc., can be repaired.
• Leaks. Check the spare tire well for moisture and the trunk floor mat for dampness. If damp, this is most likely a sign of leaking taillight gasket(s), which are easily repaired and are a very common problem. Can be a negotiating point of the seller is unaware of the cause of the problem. New gaskets are about $40/pair. You can make your own for pennies out of gasket material or any foam-like product (floor underlayment for example) or make-your-own gasket bought by the sheet or roll.
• Some cars will have loose lower body cladding. To repair, you need to remove the piece of cladding (drill out some rivets) and re-rivet (rivets to do the entire car cost $0.89 each; you'll need at least 28; a good tip is to buy extras. Available from Rapido). Easy repair. Bumper cover damage (as in torn or cracked) is also common. Relatively expensive to repair although some minor repairs can be done with material available in most auto body shops. Most difficult part of this is finding either a replacement bumper cover (and sometimes you might need the underlying bumper itself) or getting a bodyshop to repair the damaged cover (this can be done; it's just plastic). The bumper covers are fairly easily removed and replaced (see IMON Archives).
• Taillights/headlights: If the car you're looking at has broken lights, your car won't pass a state safety inspection. Finding replacements can be difficult although not impossible. The going rate seems to be about $50-$75 per unit and they seem to be fairly available in Merkur-related classified ads
• Foggy looking headlights. Very common. Some of this (if not all of it) can be cleared up using Meguiar's plastic cleaner and polish (or similar) but the seller might not know that. Negotiating point.
  
• Inoperative exterior lights: You can find replacement bulbs at any auto parts store.
  
• Broken foglights. Pretty rare to find a replacement foglight. I would suggest that if they're important to you (the originals really don't shed much light on anything), buy aftermarket units. I bought one XR foglight at a salvage yard ($20) and then had to put a $10 bulb into it. You can buy an entire set of equally ineffective foglights for the same amount.
• Glass. Again, finding the replacement glass might be your biggest task. Any competent glass shop can replace the pieces if they have them.
• Antenna. On 85 through most 87 models, the powered antenna on the left rear quarter panel is most likely inoperative because water has entered the mechanism and rusted everything shut. Or the plastic cable that raises and lowers the mast has broken. Or both. I've read that these can be repaired but it is a real pain (i've tried). You can fit a universal electric antenna (Radio Shack, etc.) but will need to get a special fitting to connect its antenna cable to the radio (or do as I did and just replace the entire cable from radio to antenna).
• Inoperative trunk lock. Caused by the pot-metal lock assembly breaking, which is caused by the actuation of the solenoid each time you unlock or lock the door. A small part that costs $40-$60 to replace (just for the part). I've found this to be a real pain to replace. I "fixed" the broken part by "rewelding" it with JB Weld and then disconnected the solenoid so that I now open/close the hatch with a key. No more problem.
• Broken windows. A windshield repairman said that windshields were still available (this was in Spring '99). I've noticed lots of good window glass including windshields in junkyards. So don't be put off an otherwise good buy by some broken or missing glass; it's easily replaced but a good bargaining point in the meantime.

Interior

• Cracked dashes on early models 85-'87 and some 88s are very common. A replacement dash from a later model will cost about $100-$150, maybe more as they become more rare. If you can handle a Philips-head screwdriver and have a little patience, you can replace the dash yourself in about two hours. Also available are dash covers for about $100; this just glues over the existing cracked dash pad. Note that 88 and 89 XR dashes are a darker grey than the early models, both the upper and lower dashes. Regardless, the difference in color is not nearly as noticeable as the cracks in the dash.
• Seats: XRs came in either cloth or leather interiors. Cracked leather or torn seams are common in early-model XRs, especially the driver's seat (it gets most of the wear and tear). You can buy replacement leather seat covers (really big $$$ from Rapido), get them recovered in leather or vinyl at an upholstery shop, buy used seats from a salvage yard or XR enthusiast, or buy seat covers from any number of sources. Used leather seats, if you can find them, are about $100 each. I recently saw an excellent condition leather driver's seat advertised for $300. Getting the seams resewn is an option but one upholsterer knowledgeable about XRs said the resewn seat covers would then be too tight to slip back onto the seats. (The reason the seams split, he said, is that the leather shrinks.) Heated seats. Most XRs came with heated front seats. It is not uncommon for these no longer to be working. Usually a broken connection as the heating elements themselves were very brittle. I don't know for sure, but I would guess these are expensive to repair. I do know from experience that the seat upholstery is very difficult to get off and back on if you do it yourself.
• Switches. If the electric windows don't work, suspect corroded connections at the switch(es), or the switch itself could be bad (there have been many reports of both). Remove switch, spray with electrical contact cleaner, reassemble. Should work. Another good bargaining point. The problem might be worse (bad electric motor, for example) but most often, it's just corrosion. Corrosion at all electrical connections is a typical XR problem. If you have inoperative rear turn signals, for example, try cleaning the bulb contacts with a Scotchbrite pad and/or spraying with contact cleaner.
• Wet floormats or carpets. Suspect clogged sunroof drains. Unclog with clothes hanger. If wetness is accompanied by smell of coolant, suspect ruptured heater core.
• Drooping headliner. Very common especially in early-model XRs. You can repair this yourself fairly easily (can you operate a Philips screwdriver?) in 2-3 hours. Cost me $50 for fabric and glue. Simply unscrew everything holding the headliner in (it's fabric-covered hardboard and the fabric has become delaminated from the hardboard), remove headliner through the hatch, strip the fabric, clean the panel, reglue and recover. Getting the right type of glue is crucial. See Archives or Merkur Encloypedia.)
• Blinking warning lights. These are the lights above the radio that come on when you first start the car and should go off almost immediately unless something is wrong. However, they usually stay on. Or blink. Sometimes while you're driving down the road they come on for absolutely no reason, blink for a minute or so, then go off again. Almost as if they're haunted. XRs are notorious for this (both mine have done this, for example). Some folks have replaced the computer that controls this (beneath the glove box) and fixed it; others have done this and not fixed it. Others just disconnect the wiring harness. Others have said simply cleaning the contacts at the wiring harness has cured this problem (this has worked for me twice). Same goes for the little plan-view diagram of the car that shows if headlights/taillights/etc. are working or if a door is open. Clean the contacts on this also. At least one XR owner has taken all this out of the dash and replaced it with a three-gauge cluster of oil temp, oil pressure and one other gauge.
• Dark gauge cluster. Turn the dash lights on. You should be able to see all the gauges clearly. There are six illumination lights in the cluster and it is not uncommon for one or all of them to be out. Easy repair and can be inexpensive if you just replace the bulb (see Archives).
• Lazy tachometer or inoperative tachometer. Again, fairly common. You need to resolder all the connections on the tach (or send it to Dave Compton and he'll do it for $40 exhange plus recalibrate it). Removing the gauge cluster again is a Philips-screwdriver operation.
• Erratic fuel gauge. Could be the gauge or could be the sender.
• Inoperative or low-reading engine temperature gauge. Can be any number of problems. Simplest: clean all the coolant passages; this has worked for me after doing all the following to no avail: Replace the engine coolant temperature sensor (this sends signal to the EEC). Or replace the sensor that sends signal to the gauge, also known as the purple ring sensor; each of these cost about $40. Your engine cooling fan might also be inoperative (many more bucks), or you might have a blown relay (rare) fuse. It would be very important to have a functioning gauge in an XR since the engine and turbo generate so much heat. (Most XRs engine problems are due to overheating.)
• Inoperative speedometer. Replace with one from salvaged car (around $25). If that doesn't fix it, suspect the speedometer cable or the speedometer gear in the transmission.
• Cigarette lighter. Some of them work; most don't. You shouldn't be smoking anyhow.
• Radios. I don't think I've seen but one or two original XR radios. Most of the buttons on the originals fail.
• Speakers. Originals don't last long it seems. Replace with aftermarkets. Crutchfield offers excellent service and accurate directions, IMHO. Fan switch. You should have three speeds on the fan switch. If the fan works only on the highest setting, you've probably got a bad resistor pack, although very, very cheap and an easy repair ($2?) but a good bargaining point if the seller is not knowledgeable.

Driveline

• The original manual 5-speed is known as a T-9. Pretty sloppy shifting but strong enough for this car. A lot of enthusiasts replace the T-9 with a T-5 from late-model Mustangs. Much stronger transmission with better shifting. You'll also need a different bellhousing, driveshaft, etc.
• Clutches. Will need replacing since they do wear out.
• Automatics are Ford C-3 units (3-speed). Keep transmission fluid in them and they should be fine. Prone to leakage around the filler tube (cheap repair), which looks suspiciously like something worse (expensive repair). Also suspect the front seal. Change fluid and filter in the transmission often (every 30k). Pull the transmission dipstick and check the color of the fluid (should be pink) and smell it (should NOT smelled burned). If fluid is any color other than pink or smells burned, run away from this car.
• Guibo also known as a roto-flex coupling. Connects the output shaft of the transmission to the driveshaft. Fails around the 60k mile mark, usually catastrophically (a big bang followed by thump, thump, thump under the car followed by severe driveline vibrations). Part costs around $40-$60 depending on which one and where you buy it. Pretty simple driveway repair although easier on a lift. To check if it's ABOUT to fail, crawl under the car and inspect the guibo. Look for cracks or chunks missing. If that's what you find, replace the guibo. Some Fiat guibos and some BMW guibos are direct replacements.
• Engine mounts. They go bad. If you notice a lot of vibration (as in the rear-view mirror vibrating), or if the oil pan is resting on the crossmember, replace the mounts. Mounts cost about $100 each. While you're at it, replace the transmission mount too.
• Clicking sound from the rear while driving slowly. This most likely is a bad Constant Velocity (CV) joint(s). Not a complicated repair but one of the most difficult because of the difficulty in removing the Torx bolts (see Archives for tips on how to do this. Also get (1) a lot of guaranteed Torx bits; and (2) a list of pretty strong cuss words. Keep them handy.) You can buy rebuilt rear axles with c/v joints and replace everything.

Suspension

• Shocks/struts. Like any car, they wear out. Replace them if ride has deteriorated or car sags. Sagging also caused by worn springs. Car should sit level. Some enthusiasts replace shocks/springs/struts with aftermarket units to lower the car and improve the handling.
• Bushings. Again, parts that wear out (but seemingly more often on XRs than any other Ford product I've owned). Lower control arm bushings are most notorious; causes brake pedal shudder on braking (which also can be a symptom of warped brake rotors). LCA bushings cost about $100/pair and is a repair you can do yourself (but is is not a Philips-head screwdriver repair, however). Sway bar bushings also need to be replaced periodically as do strut tower bushings and bearings (when you replace the struts). Less common is a need to replace the bushings in the rear of the car.
• Wheels. The aluminum on XR wheels must be soft, because I read a lot about wheel rims being bent and I've had two bent ones. Can be repaired at a wheel shop specializing in straightening bent rims. Check your Yellow Pages. Probably the most common thing that enthusiasts do, though, is replace stock wheels with aftermarket components. But check stock wheels for dents in the rims before buying car.
• Tires. The 85-86 models came with 14 inch tires; 87-89 came with 15 inch. You can upgrade to 16 inchers if you lower the profile of your tires (see knowledgeable tire/wheel person) using the Plus One concept.
• Steering. Steering racks have been known to go bad in XRs and can be an expensive repair although you can buy a rebuilt rack to keep down costs. Test the steering for notchiness (some of which can be cured by flushing and refilling the power steering fluid, which you should do anyhow periodically). Also check for torn steering rack boots (they cost about $15 each and can be repaired by most shadetree mechanics; I've done it twice; when you look up Shadetree Mechanic in the dictionary, there's my photo). Directions are on the Merkur Encloypedia. Replacement boots can be obtained from FLM or from BAT or Rapido.
• Brakes. You'll need to change the brake pads occasionally, the rear shoes less often. If you have to replace the rotors, they aren't very expensive (compared to, say, cars with ABS brakes). I've heard of very few problems with brakes; they're pretty simple and straightforward like most other cars although XRs seem to have inherited the common Ford problem of easily warped rotors. XRs also come equipped with a low-pad thickness warning lamp. This is actuated by a wire that runs to the caliper. It is not unusual for this to break or even to be disconnected by someone doing a brake job. I don't think they're worth much especially since cars in most states have to have an annual safety inspection where brakes are checked.
• Tip: flush and refill the brake fluid once a year (it absorbs moisture); ditto for the engine coolant (while coolant should last longer, these engines put a lot of stress on the coolant; I wouldn't take any chances for the sake of $5-$10 worth of coolant).

Engine:

One good thing about XR engines: If you don't overheat them (which can be common), the engines are fairly bulletproof, especially the bottom ends. Look for signs of oil leakage around the valve cover.

• The valve cover gaskets are notorious leakers, especially if original or especially if cork. This could be a bargaining point with an uneducated seller. (If the seller were educated about Merkurs, he would know to replace the gasket before selling it.) The gasket costs about $25; you can replace it yourself (see Encloypedia) with a little bit of patience.
• Look for signs of overheating, leaking fluids, etc. Check color of the coolant (usually green or yellow). Radiators are notorious for leaking especially around the plastic end caps; ditto for water pumps. It is not uncommon for an XR to have had at least one new radiator. XRs have different radiators for automatic transmission and manual transmission cars. I have repaired one XR radiator that was leaking at the end caps by following the suggestion in the official shop manual... use RTV sealant. Did the job. $4 and I've still got most of the tube of RTV left. Although the radiator has resumed leaking, although in a very small amount (drips really). I believe 89 XR radiators are different from all others. Replacing the radiator is easy (I did one for $160). All coolant hoses should be in good shape, not spongy to the touch or bulging. Because of the underhood heat, it is not uncommon to have to replace ALL the hoses and is advisable on an old car with original hoses. Keeping spares handy is good practice also.
• Pull out the oil breather (round thing on back of valve cover). Look inside. Should be clean. If clogged or dirty/sludge-y, suspect that the oil hasn't been changed regularly. Clean in kerosene.
• Ask how often oil was changed and what kind of oil was used. 10w-30 Mobil 1 synthetic is desirable, and oil changes every 3,000 miles are smart on these cars (again that high heat of the engine compartment and the extra loads put on turbocharged engines). All vacuum lines should be hooked up and operational although any smart XR owner would replace all the lines periodically anyhow.
• Spark plug cables are susceptible to high heat generated by the turbo. Should be replaced about every six months some folks say. Ditto for the spark plugs. Expect to replace distributor cap, rotor, plugs and wires anyhow when you buy the car. Most XR enthusiasts recommend the original Motorcraft plugs and definitely not platinum plugs. Some owners have reported good results using NGK TR5 plugs, part #2238.
• Check the a/c hose that goes from the compressor to the firewall, stretching right over the turbo. Bad for being affected by the turbo's heat and cracking the hose, which leads to leaking refrigerant and no a/c. Pretty costly to repair (about $100+) plus having your a/c recharged. The a/c compressor is also known for failing regularly. You can get rebuilt a/c components from a company named Hancock Industries in Texas (see Archives). But if the a/c is nonoperational, any buyer should expect to have an expensive repair bill on their hands (I was quoted $2,700 once just for the parts, although I ended up paying just $500 and doing it myself).
• Turbo. Usually bulletproof as long as the driver lets the car idle for a minute or so after driving it before turning it off (this allows cooling oil to circulate through the turbo housing, otherwise the oil just sits and cooks-called coking-and causes harmful deposits, which in turn ruins the turbo). Replacing a turbo is expensive.
• Keep an eye also on the oil coolant line. Prone to wear at back of engine. If this line should break, you will cook the turbo.
• Exhaust. A good original exhaust is not uncommon on XRs. Also not uncommon is a higher performance aftermarket exhaust, such as a 2.5-inch or 3-inch downpipe (connects the exhaust manifold to the catalytic converter) coupled with a cat-back exhaust system, either single 3-inch exhaust or a dual 2.5 inch exhaust. All this is highly desirable as it improves the car's performance ($600 and up for good aftermarket exhaust system). Also check the catalytic converter for the possibility of being plugged. This will hamper the car's performance significantly and is not an UNcommon problem.
• Exhaust manifold. Check for cracks especially between Nos. 3 and 4 cylinder. Exhaust manifolds can be ported for better performance.
• Expect to replace the PCV valve (located between distributor and the engine) regularly. A $3.50 part that should be replaced often and only with a genuine Motorcraft part. Expect to replace all the fan belts just for safety's sake (inexpensive anyhow). Keep the old ones in the trunk as spares.
• Timing belt. Ask seller if the timing belt has been replaced. They are notorious for breaking every 60,000 miles (at least the original belts were; replacement belts are stronger and probably last longer). Best advice is to replace the belt every 60k anyhow. If the belt breaks, the car just stops running (on some cars-not XRs-when the belt breaks it might ruin the valves) but Merkurs are trained to stop running when they are farthest from a repair facility or when you're in a hurry. When you replace the timing belt also replace the timing belt tensioner. Do not try to save a few bucks by not replacing the tensioner; you'll be replacing it later and having to do the whole job all over again. If the car is running erratically, the problem sometimes can be traced to a timing belt that has jumped a tooth.
• Check the hoses that connects the Vane Air Meter (VAM) to the turbo and the turbo outlet to the throttle body for cracks. If they're cracked, the car won't run right; also if the hoses are missing their internal wires that help them hold their shape the car won't run right (because the hose collapses). Coolant overflow bottles are notorious for leaking as are windshield wiper fluid containers Also suspect are all coolant pressure caps (something else you should immediately replace with a new one upon buying any XR).
• Leaking fuel injectors. Pretty common problem for XRs (hence the good advice to carry a fire extinguisher in the car at all times). Look for fuel puddling on the fuel injector rail alongside the driver's side of the engine. If this is happening, you'll need to r/r the injectors which can be expensive ($50 to $100 apiece and you'll need four). Also suspect a faulty fuel pressure regulator.
• Fuel pumps go bad in all cars and don't seem to be anymore of a problem in XRs than any other kind. There are two pumps, though, in an XR. One is in the fuel tank and is expensive to replace, not that the other one is cheap. Fuel pressure regulators, however, tend to get a lot of traffic on the various Merkur mail lists.
• Squealing sound when you turn on the a/c. Could simply be a loose belt. Tighten them all. Most early model XRs had the a/c compressor belt running off a pulley at the water pump. Better is installing a 3-belt crank pulley from a 2.3L Mustang and run the a/c compressor off that pulley. No more squeal, and your water pump might last a bit longer.
• Batteries. Again, because of the high underhood heat, batteries don't last long in XRs, especially since the battery is located almost on top of the 1,400 degree turbo. Several enthusiasts have moved the batteries to the trunks (for this reason and also to improve front-to-rear weight distribution). If you drive your XR a lot, you can expect to replace the battery about once a year, perhaps more often. One thing I do with my XR, is after parking it in the garage, I lift the hood and let the underhood hot air escape. You won't believe how hot it gets. In the summer, I also turn on a fan and let the air blow over the engine. This helps battery life and the life of everything else under the hood. If you have a non-maintenance-free battery be doubly sure to check the battery for low water regularly. Most folks recommend using only distilled water.
• TFI (or Thick Film Ignition) modules on XRs fail, usually catastrophically meaning the car simply stops running, more often than anyone would like and usually as far from help as possible. Hence the good advice to carry a spare TFI with you at all times (and the special tool that removes/replaces it, about $10 at any parts store... it's called a Ford ignition wrench, I believe). The TFI mounts on the distributor body. R/Ring it is about a 15-minute procedure. Use only original Motorcraft TFIs (about $80 at any FLM dealer) although the budget-minded XR buyer will be enticed to buy a cheaper knockoff version. You will be sorry if you do this.
• Throttle Position Sensor. This is a $35-$50 part (again, buy the Motorcraft version), generally available, and controls the idle speed among other things. It is a simple potentiometer device. Must be calibrated using a voltmeter (set it a 0.95 to 1.00 volts). If the car has an erratic idle, or an intermittent high idle, it's probably the TPS. Easy repair.

Tools to have:

Although a complete set of tools is by far the best thing to have, including an engine hoist and drive-on ramps, you can make most repairs with the following:

• A digital voltmeter
• Assorted screwdrivers (I've found that a very long 24-inch Philips screwdriver is helpful in more instances than you might imagine, as is a very stubby one)
• Pliers
• 3/8-inch socket wrench with extensions
• Set of metric sockets (from 8mm to 21mm)
• Combination metric wrenches (8mm to 16mm)
• Locking pliers
• Wire strippers
• Side cutters (diagonal pliers)
• Razor knife
• Floor jack and jackstands; also roll-on ramps.
• A magnet-on-a-stick for retrieving dropped nuts/bolts/screws. You won't believe how often you use this tool.
• Timing light.

Things the smart XR owner carries in the car:

• Fire extinguisher (don't leave home without one)
• Tools
• Extra fan belts
• Extra coolant hoses or a hose repair kit
• Duct tape
• Digital volt meter
• Cellphone
• Flashlight
• A spare TFI (Motorcraft only) and the wrench to R/R it (the tool costs $10.00 and is worth every penny; there simply is no substitute)
• Spare timing belt
• AAA membership or similar
• Blanket, matches, survival gear I keep my shop manual in the car.
• Did I mention cellphone?