Replacing Motor Mounts

- Either put the car on jack stands or use ramps (as I did). Block the wheels, handbrake on etc.
- Disconnect battery.
- Undo the two top engine mount nuts (One each side). The one under the turbo is tough to get to. I managed with a 17mm wrench as the socket set would not fit.
- Undo the two bottom 17mm nuts
- easily reached with a socket set from between the rack boots and the cross-member.
- Place a trolley or scissor jack under the sump. I used a trolley jack with two pieces of wood 2x6x12 on top to spread the load.
- Jack up the engine until pressure is relieved from the engine mount.
- There are three 13mm bolts each side which connect the aluminium (note spelling!) engine supports to the block. Working one side at a time, remove these bolts. These are reasonably accessible and easily removed.
- Remove the complete support, engine mount and the black support frame. Note the way it is assembled and then replace the rubber mount. My mounts were provided by BAT and on the driver's side it was necessary to re-use the metal mount 'frame'. The two frames are identical with the exception of a metal location dowel on the bottom. It would appear that the intent of this is to correctly locate the frame and stop it from turning when installing the mount.
- Re-installation is the reverse. Ensure the steel indicator/safety tang is correctly located in the mount frame.
- Replace the other side engine mount.
- Replace the main top nuts only which hold the mount to the engine support. Torque 50-70Lbs.
- Remove the jack from under the sump and allow engine to settle. I rocked the engine to locate it and then replaced the bottom main nuts.
- Tighten them loosely, Reconnect battery, and start the engine.

I then drove the car for 5 miles or so (not hard!) and then returned and torqued the bottom bolts. I don't know if this last step is necessary, but it seems like a good common sense step to ensure that the mounts are not 'bound up' and are in the correct location. I will re-check the bolts after 1000 miles driving.That's it! I am not an experienced mechanic, but going safely and slowly and working it all out took me about 3.5 hours. One of the more straightforward jobs on an XR. It's a little tricky to get the support arm, mount frame and mount all in to the correct position, but there are dowel pins to ensure correct alignment, and it's not too difficult.One other point it that I did have to loosen the exhaust downpipe bolts and move the downpipe after doing this as the pipe was hitting the floor pan with the new mounts. This was surprisingly easy with the engine hot from the run (2 16mm bolts). I have Nick's 3" system
- an OEM system would probably be OK.Well worth the effort. BIG difference in perceived engine smoothness and my mirror now doesn't vibrate at 3000 RPM to the point where I couldn't read the car behind's number plate!