I just purchased bearings for the T9
I brought 3 from BAT
Input shaft bearing M702 $35.20 Bearing brand FAG # 566096
input shaft to output shaft bearing M704 $7.15
rear counter shaft M706 $32.75 FAG # 545995 or on new one Torrington # 545995 H49A
and two from Ford
front needle bearings 21pcs. .73 each or $15.33 for all 21 Part
# E5RY-7121-A
output shaft bearing $39.90 Part # SKF BBIB 362021 last #'s
probably the significant ones
Ford Part # E5RY7065A
Reverse bushing Ford discontinued at $130.00 in 1998 bat was out
of.
I tried to get the bearings from Miller Bearing but they did not
have.You
may have a bearing supplier near you who can get the above bearings.
Get these from your local parts store.
Pilot bearing CR, BCA or Federal Mogul FC-65354
Seals
Input CR # 10930 or National Federal Mogul # 222820
Output CR # 13527 or National Federal Mogul # 2443
Shift rail CR brand 5541 or maybe 3F3R size 1/2 X 1
Did not find a bushing for the rear tailhouse driveshaft.
Gasket set
input shaft seal and O ring
output shaft seal
output shaft bush if worn
speedo drive seal
possible layshaft if worn
reverse idler gear (usually chewed, the crunch sound you get going intoreverse)
main bearing
BAT has a nice diagram of internals and prices for these bits.
How hard? Well, it takes time, you have to get everything meticulously clean. Inspect everything closely.
The shop manual has pretty good instructions. Hardest thing is meshing the cluster gear up to the main shaft. You need a dummy lay/counter shaft.
I used to use rubber hose and dowel, but you can cut down an old lay shaft so it is long enough to hold all the needle bearings in place but short enough to slide the gear into position. Then the main shaft goes in and then you lift the counter gear with two strings like a cradle. You then carefully tap the dummy one out with the full length lay shaft. This is kind of a "watchmaker" operaion but after a few times ( :-) ) it is easy.
You leave all the gears and hubs on the mainshaft unless something looks bad (they are a press fit) but you do need to press the main bearing off the back of it.
I used to use grease on everything to hold it together (needle bearings, thrust washers, synchros) but I am not sure if this is correct when using synthetic fluid (contamination?).
There are also some select fit snap rings on the main or maybe input shaft. Measuring end play and getting correct snap ring (BAT has them) is also essential to minimize slop.
